Last week, Nathalie and I had the occasion to join some friends on a snowboarding trip in the Alps. This wasn't our first time in Europe's largest mountain range, but it was the first trip we've taken after spending nearly a month in the Rockies earlier this year.
While I don't think the two are really comparable (Nathalie and I have spent hours trying unsuccessfully to do so), the experience in the alps is equally awesome. Keep reading below to find out why!
During our time in Switzerland, we stayed in the resort of Laax-Flims-Falera, or simply 'Laax' for short. It's about 75 minutes south of Zurich in the Canton of Graubunden, around 12 miles/20 km from the town of Chur.
This was our 5th time visiting (and seventh overall trip to the Swiss Alps) and has become one of our favorite alpine destinations thanks to its small-town feel and snowboarder-friendly environment. That's not to say that there's still beef between snowboarders and skiers, but Laax is also home to the Swiss Snowboarding Federation's headquarters, making it especially easy for snowboarders to feel welcome.
Switzerland Is a Legacy of Europe Past
The Alps are spread across seven countries, from France in the west to Slovenia in the east, with Germany and Italy making the northern and southern borders, respectively. While each one of these nations boasts a wide range of ski resorts (the exception being tiny Liechtenstein), they almost all reside within the European Union.
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| Flims in the summer (source) |
By not participating, Switzerland still maintains an air of independence; one largely no longer found in its alpine neighbors. The currency is the Swiss Franc, not the Euro. Most consumer goods are largely imported. The people have this protected Swiss pride and feel, one that is slowly diminishing in other countries in Europe. Hell, you can even smoke in bars (an act that this strictly forbidden within the boundaries of the EU).
Visiting Switzerland takes you back to different era; one where Europe was still fragmented yet peaceful. That experience alone is worth the price admission as you'll be hard-pressed to live that elsewhere within Europe.
Best Quality Resorts in the Alps
We've been snowboarding for eight years now and during that time, we've been fortunate enough to ride in Switzerland, Germany, France and Austria. Even though your main goal is to get out and ride the snow (at least if you're serious about snowboarding), you're still going to have to live somewhere to eat and sleep.
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| Brand new bubbles at the summit of La Siala, Laax |
Additionally, the towns are kept in a pristine state, and there are plenty of trash cans and recycling bins found along the spotless streets.
While you're on the mountain, you'll be treated to well maintained and mostly modern installations. Laax, as a resort, is covered with some of the most up-to-date chairlifts on the planet. I'm talking about heated seats with wind guards that come down with a pull of the hand. You might think this is a bit frivolous, but wait until you try it during your next cold and windy day up on the mountain; I think you'll become a convert.
And unlike in the US, the groomers pass through every slope each night, plowing fresh snowfields for the next morning. This might be a point of preference, but it's certainly different than what you'll find in the Rockies.
Overall, you'll feel that your money is being put to good use in providing you with the highest level of quality and service while you're on vacation.
Going the Distance (aka Trails That Run For Miles)
One of the biggest differences Nathalie and I noticed while we were snowboarding in Laax was the difference in the layout of the slopes between the Alps and the Rockies. Of course, this will all go down to topography and that geologically speaking, the ranges are completely different.
Perhaps the most noticeable discrepancy was the vertical rise from the base to the summit. At the resorts we went to in the Rockies, there was around 500-1,000m (around 1,500-3,000 ft) between the first chair and the highest peak. In Laax, and indeed many stations throughout the alps, this change is even greater. Our base station started at 1,100m (around 600 ft) and the highest chair took us all the way up to 3,000m (approximately 2,800 ft).
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| The Laax Trail Map |
During our seven days on the mountain, we were able to cover about the distance we did in 21 days in the Rockies. Part of this had to do with the lower altitude helping with athletic performance but mainly, it had to do with the long pistes found throughout the domain.
Neither system is better than the other, but it's definitely worth experiencing. From our end, while we've covered a lot of ground in many different resorts, Swiss ones in general, and Laax in particular, boast some of the longest we've encountered. Everyday, it felt like we would go on an adventure moving throughout the resort. It's a must for snowboarders and skiers looking to cover some serious ground throughout their trip.
Majestic Mountains
I love the Rockies. They're inherently beautiful and carry great symbolism in the makeup of the United States. However, there is just this spiritual awe that overcomes you when looking out over the Swiss alps.
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| A view of Graubunden from the top of Laax |
In truth, it's very hard to quantify. My thoughts are that it has to do with two distinct factors. First, the tree line sits very low, at around 2,000m/6,500ft above sea level. This means that the bald tops of the summits cover a much larger portion of the mountain's surface area than in the Rockies.
Second, the vertical rise between the valley and the peaks is way more pronounced than in the US. This means that the relief between the sky and the earth stands in greater contrast than in other parts of the world.
Switzerland has given me some of the most spectacular views I've seen in the Alps and Laax is no exception.
If You're Having Cheese Problems I Feel Bad For You Son, I Got 99 Choices And Gruyere Is One
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| Raclette; it's like turning anything into a whole bunch of grilled-cheese awesomeness (source) |
The Swiss, as a landlocked and mountainous country, choose to use their limited pastures to raise dairy cow. This means that while steak is expensive and imported, local dairy products such as cheese, milk, and butter are both high quality and abundance.
Between cheese fondue, Raclette dinners, and delicious sandwiches, visiting Switzerland guarantees a unique culinary experience. Just make sure to pace yourself, otherwise you'll brick your stomach.
The Wax Up
Switzerland is an amazing place to visit and to snowboard. Of course, it all comes at a price. Once upon a time, the Swiss Franc was weak versus the Euro and the Dollar meaning that these foreign currencies bought more bang for the holder's buck. Those days are gone, for now, and while it's beneficial to Swiss citizens and importers, it has made the country relatively more expensive than its neighbors. However, that doesn't mean there aren't ways to visit without breaking the bank.
First and foremost, Switzerland is a place where you're best booking well in advance. Last minute deals are a rarity in the Alps, and the Swiss don't generally make an exception. Sometimes towards the end of the season if the snow cover is bad, there might be deals available, but overall, you will find a larger variety of accommodation, both in choice and in price, if you book well in advance (think early Fall).
Lift tickets are generally cheaper than in the US and most resorts in the Alps and in Switzerland offer package deals bundling lodging and ski passes, Although Swiss lift tickets are largely more expensive than those of their neighbors.
That being said, whatever the price difference might be, for me, it's completely worth adjusting expectations to experience snowboarding in Switzerland. With just a slight increase in budget, your adventure in the Swiss will be markedly better.
From the friendly people, to the top-notch facilities, to the sparkingly-clean towns, to the distinct lack of ego among the guests (looking at you, France), you're definitely going to get your money's worth out of your Swiss snowboarding holiday!
Places Mentioned in the Post
Resort: Laax, Switzerland
How to Get There: From Zurich, you can take a train to Chur, then transfer to PostBus 81, directions Flims. Additionally, Laax offers a shuttle service from Zurich International Airport. Details are available on their website. If driving: Follow Autoroute 3 South (direction Chur). Continue past Chur and exit 18-Reichenau toward Disentis/Mustér/Ilanz/Flims/Domat/Ems.
Lodging: This varies wildly depending on the size of your group and whether you want to stay in a hotel or holiday apartment. We've almost always stayed in an apartment and would pay anywhere from 180.00-300.00 EUR per person for an 1-bedroom furnished unit. Your best bet is to book one of the many packages available (we like the "Ski for Two" deals with 7 days and 7 nights accommodation plus lift tickets). Booking in advance is recommended.
Ski Pass: Rates vary on both day and duration. Typically, expect to pay between 60.00-70.00 EUR a day with a six-day pass costing around 330.00 EUR.
Rentals: For Snowboarding gear, I highly recommend Chopp in Flims. This store is run by two of the town's most dedicated and friendly snowboarders who run their shop with a focus of providing top quality gear for their clients. They only rent and sell brands that they like and use themselves and are extremely knowledgeable about where to go and what to do on the mountain. It's hands-down my favorite snowboarding store on the planet.
For skis, you can either rent directly via Laax's FREE shop (that's "free" as in speech, not as in beer), or through various sports stores scattered throughout the town.
Eating: There are numerous excellent restaurants spread throughout the resort. While we usually cook dinner at home and chill (we're usually too tired to move after our showers), expect to pay between 10-30 CHF per person when dining out.
When eating on the mountain, there are restaurants located at many of the major lift exits as well as chalets scattered throughout the resort. Crap Sion Gion lies at the epicenter of Laax and boasts a variety of sit-down restaurants, buffets, food counters and bars. An average hot meal at the buffet will cost around 13 CHF, drink not included.
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| Vorab base station |
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