Go Go Global Gringo's Travel Guide: The Philippines

After spending a fantastic month in the Philippines, I thought it would only be fair to share our suggestions on how to visit the Philippines and get the most out of your time and your experience.  Read on after the jump to find out more!  

Paradise from a boat

First off, before heading out to the Philippines, watching this video is prerequisite viewing as it hits the nail on the head in defining what to expect from your Filipino vacation (okay maybe not but admit it, that was 22 minutes well spent).   Now that that's out of the way, we can get into the details. 

Why Go?

The Philippines is a nation made up of over 7,000 islands.  The country itself is divided into three parts: The north, dominated by the main island of Luzon; the central Visayas region with Cebu as the capital, and the southern Mindanao island bringing up the rear.  

Each region has its own unique aspects to it.  We spent a month in the Philippines and were almost exclusively in the Visayas (we spent two days on Mindanao in transit to Camiguin) and barely scratched the surface.  However, the main theme tying these regions together is the stunning natural beauty the Philippines has to offer.  In other words, this country is a nature-lovers' paradise.

The Philippines are perfect for those looking to be outdoors.  From scaling beautiful volcanic mountain peaks, to rock climbing, to canyoning, to scuba-diving, to snorkeling to simply lying on the beach; this is where it's at.  Furthermore, the country hasn't yet 'broken out' in terms of tourism meaning you'll get a more authentic experience easier than you would in a place like Thailand, which is relatively heavily developed.  

What to Expect

The Philippines, while growing quickly,  is still very much a developing country.   They are making great strides to constantly improve their infrastructure but there's still a long way to go.  Roads aren't the best, and while running water is easily accessible, albeit non-potable to westerners, the electricity supply can sometimes fluctuate in the country-side.   There is a sometimes wide disparity in the standard of living between the cities and the country side.  It's not uncommon to see abject poverty.   Alleviating it is a major policy goal of the government, but the country has a long way to go until  it's largely eliminated  

What they lack in infrastructure, they make up with their amazing people.  The Filipinos are some of the nicest people I've met.  They're very outgoing and easy to talk to.  A simple smile goes a long way and the fact that most of the population speaks English makes it easy to ask for help, strike up a conversation or even strike up a joke.   They are very, very polite and will address you as "sir" or "ma'am."  It helps to return this courtesy. 

There are two seasons in the Philippines:  the dry and rainy season.   The dry season runs from November until April-May and the wet season from June until October.  This varies a bit based on where you are in the country but in general, this is the cycle that can be expected.  When we were in Moalboal in early May we had a few days where we would get a heavy afternoon shower and then the sun would come back out.    Wherever you are, it will be hot: The average highs are in the low 30s C/upper 80s F and in the summer months can easily go higher.  Bring sunscreen!

The Philippines is a devoutly Catholic nation.  While they do look more towards the west in terms of dress and pop culture, they still have firm views vis-a-vis family planning.   That being said, they love to party and are very tolerant of western-style dress.  As such, men and women don't need to be as concerned about covering themselves up like they would need to in other countries in the region.

Want to learn more about my time in the Pearl of the Orient Seas?
Check out all my posts on the Philippines!

How to Get There

The Philippines sits on the eastern-edge of Southeast Asia.   If you're coming from North America, you'll more than likely either need for fly from the West Coast directly into Manila or change planes in either Japan, Taiwan or Hong Kong.  

Coming from Europe, there are very few direct flights (as of this writing).  The easiest method would be either to fly directly to Southeast Asia (either to Bangkok, Hong Kong, or Kuala Lumpur) or go via the up-and-coming Persian Gulf-based airlines like Emirates, Etihad and Qatar airlines.  

If you're already in the region, look at booking a cheap flight on one of the many low-cost carriers in Southeast Asia.  The two most popular ones serving the Philippines are the omnipresent Air Asia and the Philippines' own Cebu Pacific.   The benefit of using these two is that you might be able to get a direct flight to your 'final destination' in the Philippines rather than having to go through the two main hubs of Manila/Cebu.  For example, when we first entered the Philippines, we went from Kuala Lumpur to Kalibo, which was only an hour and a half van ride away from Boracay.

How to Get Around

The Philippines is a country where places are geographically close but also far away at the same time. A journey that might take upwards 24 hours over land can be done in merely 45 minutes by plane.  Interstates do not exist and instead highways are usually one to two-lane roads with naturally low speed limits due to difficult terrain the roads go over.  That being said, getting around is cheap and can be very rewarding.

By Air

Flying is by far the fastest method to travel in the Philippines...at least if you've got a large distance to cover.  There are two main airlines:  Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific.  Cebu Pacific is a low-cost airline and was the one we used exclusively the three times we took flights.  

It's relatively inexpensive to book flights with them and depending on the frequency they have on certain routes, you might be able to book a last minute fare for under 75 USD a ticket.  For example, when we decided we needed to leave Boracay, we booked a flight to Cebu city with Cebu Pacific less than 24 hours before the departure.  

They had many flights a day between Cebu City and Boracay, meaning that there was always available capacity that they were trying to sell off.  It worked out well for us and we paid around 62 USD a ticket.   Not bad, right? 

The only time this might be an issue is if you're flying into/out of an airport that only has one flight a day.  This means that you'd either need to book in advance (usually a few weeks out should suffice) or get lucky and hope that the airline will try to sell it's remaining seats at cost or at least at a discount. 

Cebu Pacific also has a free baggage allowance of 20 Kg/44 lbs per passenger meaning that if you're traveling with one suitcase or backpack you shouldn't have to buy additional luggage allowance. 

Keep in mind that many of these short flights to small airports are done in turbo-prop (aka propeller) airplanes.  These planes are perfectly safe and surprisingly comfortable, but in the age of jet travel, many fliers from the west, myself included, had never flown one before.   On the flip side, they fly at a lower altitude than jet aircraft meaning that you'll get a better view of the Philippines below you when you fly with them. 

TERMINAL FEES

Airports in the Philippines, like seaports, will charge you an additional terminal fee to have the pleasure of leaving the town that you're in.  These vary depending on where you're going (it's higher if you're flying internationally), but in any case, you can only pay in cash.  Yeah, I know what you're thinking, "why don't they include the fee in the price of the ticket?" or "why can't I pay with credit card?"  Well, you're just in a part of the world where cash is king, and it's against the law to badmouth said-king. 

Be sure to check in advance to see how much you need before getting to the airport as the ATMs there could potentially give you an unfavorable rate for withdraws compared to others in a less entrapping environment.   As a point of reference, when we left Cebu for Kuala Lumpur, the fee was 750 PHP (approximately 16 USD) per person. 

Cebu Pacific ATR 72-500 Turbo Prop (source wikimedia)

By Boat

After flying, the next easiest way to cover large distances in the Philippines is by boat.  With over 7,000 islands, it only seems logical that the Philippines would have an extensive passenger ferry network.   

From small fishing boats, to slow barges, to high speed catamarans to large ferries able to accommodate tractor trailers, there's almost always a  boat going somewhere you need to be.  Prices range from under a dollar to cross a small harbor to over 20 USD to take a high-speed catamaran between two major cities.  

The demand for ferries is so great, there is even competition between ferry companies on some major routes.  When we were in Bohol, we wanted to get to Cebu city.  We were faced with two options: either take a bus to a slow ferry over to Cebu island and then another four to five hour ride up to town, or take a high speed catamaran from Bohol directly to Cebu city that takes just under two hours to complete.  We had the choice between Super Cat and Ocean Jet with both having multiple trips per day.   

In other places, you might wind up on a slow boat is it's the only option out of town.  Prices and time vary wildly so your best bet is to research ahead.  Ask around at the hotel/guest house/hostel you're staying at for the latest info and plan your trip accordingly.   

Here are some key pointers when traveling by boat in the Philippines: 

• Always check the schedule before you travel by asking around.  Boats get canceled randomly and websites aren't always up to date.  Many ferry companies use Facebook as their primary means for communicating schedule changes to their clientele.  Try checking there. 
• Arrive early.  Tickets are on a first-come/first-serve basis.  If there's only one ferry a day, then you'll want to be there early enough to get a spot, unless you're okay with spending another night wherever you are. 
• You'll need to pay both a terminal fee and a passenger fee.  This has to be done after you've bought your ticket.  It seems a bit dodgy, but that's the way they operate.  The terminal fee will vary depending on where you're leaving from but will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the cost of the ticket.  The passenger fee is a nominal one of  anywhere between 25-50 cents. 
• You have to check-in and go through security just like at an airport.  Keep that in mind when you're budgeting your arrival time before heading to the port.  They won't take away your shampoo or liquids though. 
• You might have to check a bag and they'll make you pay for it.  If you've got what appears to be a large bag, they'll make you check it.  The price for checking a bag depends on the person behind the counter.  The fee isn't regulated or written anywhere.  It sucks, but this is how things are done in the Philippines. 
• Try to sit on the outside edges of the boat. Lots of  ferries, particularly slow ones, have open seating.  This means it can get crowded in the middle.  Get a seat either near or window, or even better: on a covered deck.  You'll get a better view of the sea around you and won't feel so cramped.  Plus, you're closer to the exit should things get real at some point during the trip. 
• If there's the risk of bad weather, the Coast Guard will stop sea traffic.  This means that you're stuck.  Check with the company you bought the ticket from as to what to do.  

The open deck on a ferry

By Bus

Bus travel is probably the most hassle-free method of  traveling in the Philippines.  There are public bus companies and in the Visayas, the most common one is Ceres line.  From what I gathered, each region has the same type of buses albeit with a different name.  They have the same font and color-scheme though, making them easy to identify.    

Every town has a bus terminal (or at least a designated stop).  Once you get to a terminal, you simply need to look for a bus going in the direction you're wanting to go in and get on board.  Each bus has an attendant who collects fares.  You need to tell him/her where you're going and they'll punch holes in a ticket over a grid of numbers telling you how much you need to pay.  The staff on-board are friendly and if you tell them in advance where you're going, they'll notify you when it's your stop.  

Here are some key pointers when traveling by bus in the Philippines:

• Buses don't run on a fixed schedule.  The bus only leaves the terminal once its full.  This means that you will either have a long wait before your bus leaves or it will go immediately, depending on demand.  
• Give yourself enough buffer time to make connections. If your bus ride is part of a transfer that is taking you to a boat or an airport, give yourself plenty of space to get to your connection.  You never know what traffic will be like or how long it will take for the bus to leave the station (not to mention whatever else could happen en route). 
• Make sure that you have small bills on hand before boarding.  Bus fare is cheap and the attendant doesn't really want to break your 1,000-peso bill as it will void them of their change.
• There are different categories of buses. There are air-conditioned and non air-condition buses running most routes.  To have the comforts of A/C, expect to pay around 25% more
• Consider splitting your trip into a couple of days (or fly) if you're spending more than 6 hours on a bus.  Buses are great, but they're oddly tiring.  You'll get cramped, even if the leg room is good and the air will taste stale, even if the A/C is on.  Your butt will get sore from riding on bumpy roads.  Give yourself a break and don't spend an entire day on the bus. 
• Take a seat next to the window and enjoy the view.  The best part about the bus is the scenery passing you by.  The Philippines is amazingly gorgeous and you'll probably wind up glued to the window as the world passes you by.  

By Taxi/private transfer

Taxis are easy to take in the Philippines as they are metered.  Most drivers seem to be okay with this, but if you're approached by a group trying to haggle with you, simply tell them that you want the meter.  If they don't go with that, walk off.  You're the one with the money after all.  If you walk three minutes down the road, you're bound to find another cab where you can try your luck again.

At airports, at least the bigger ones, there's usually a regulated taxi stand.  Always go there for a taxi as they are officially recognized cabs and they won't try to screw with you, at least when it comes to putting on the meter.

In certain cases, it might make more economic sense to take a private van to go to/from an airport/seaport.  If you're traveling in a large group (mini-vans usually hold 6-8 passengers), then the cost of the transfer will drop considerably as you can use your size to leverage a better price.

Another common trick is to find the other 'non-Filipino' looking people standing around the arrivals hall and ask them where they're going.  It's very possible that you're heading in the same direction. If you make an ad-hoc group, you can haggle for a better overall rate.

Both taxis and mini-vans/private transfers are the fastest way to travel on land as they tend to step on the gas.  You might consider putting on a seat belt...assuming there is one.

By Jeepney

Jeepneys are probably the most unique and by far the cheapest way to get around cities and their surrounding suburban areas.  These pick-up trucks have had their beds covered and inside are two rows of benches.   They run specific routes in any given city (its usually indicated on the front or painted on the side) and all you need to do is flag one down and if they have enough space, they'll stop.  If  not, they'll honk and blow right past you. 

Once it stops, hop in and take a seat.  It can get pretty crowded so get ready to have an intimate bonding experience with some Filipinos (hey, you're in it for the cultural experience, right).  If you're not sure where you're going, ask the driver beforehand and he'll usually tell you when it's your stop.  If you're familiar with the route, all you need to do is tap a coin on the metal handle  rail running across the 'cabin.'  The drivers know this is a sign to stop.  

Traveling by Jeepney is ridiculously cheap.  Expect to pay 20-40 cents for one ride.  Note that this might not be for everyone as you'll be in tight quarters and if you're claustrophobic, it probably won't do you any favors.   

A typical-looking jeepney

By Tuk-Tuk/Trike

Like (almost) everywhere in southeast Asia, it's possible to take a tuk-tuk or 'trike' as it's known as in the Philippines.  Most of these are motorized but some are operated manually as it's literally a tricycle that the driver pedals.  I personally would feel way too awkward on one of those and as such I avoided them.  If you're comfortable with it, by all means go for a ride.

The trike driver has one trait in common with its brethren in this part of the world: they will swarm on a foreigner for a fare and will try to rip them off completely.  If you need to take a trike, please haggle with them.  Some of them are reasonable, others not so much.   As with any bargaining, you're trying to make a transaction that benefits both parties and low-balling the bejeezus out of someone who's making 7 bucks a day comes across as flippant.  The better strategy is to go down to around 60% of what they're asking and they'll usually settle for that.   They're going to rip you off anyways since you're foreign, at least you're not taking the walk up rate and they're getting money for beer food later.

Money

The national currencey is the Filippino Peso (PHP).   You can take out pesos at many ATMs.  You'll normally pay a local fee of 200 PHP (around 4.50 USD) to use the ATM.   This is excluding the fees you'll pay with your bank for withdrawing cash outside of their network.  For more information on these fees, you should check with your bank.

It's important to note that some of the more remote islands and towns in the Philippines either do not have ATMs or do not have ATMs that will take foreign credit cards.  We also experienced a situation where the one ATM that took foregin cards only took Visa and did not accept Maestro, Mastercard, or American Express.   If you have a doubt, research online ahead of time and plan accordingly.  This could mean taking cash out before leaving a city.

You can also exchange currencies.  The most popular one is the US Dollar, although many major world currencies are also accepted.  We found out that going to a bank was the cheapest as they had the best rates (only 50 basis points off of interbank rates) and did not charge a fee.

Want to know why you shouldn't draw on your money?
Click here to Read my Go Go Global Gringo Pro-Tip!

Accomodation

This category varies wildly as it wholly depends on your budget.  The Philippines has it all; from grimy youth hostels to 5-star all-inclusive resorts.   I didn't have the pleasure to experience the former nor the budget to enjoy the latter, but I was able to learn about what sits in the middle.   Here's what I can report:

• Hotel booking engines like Agoda and AirBnB aren't very popular among Filipino hoteliers; especially if your budget is below 40 USD a night.  We learned this one by trying to apply our technique of last-minute hotel searching that we had fine tuned in Thailand and the Philippines only to come under the impression that there were no budget rooms available where we were going.  We were proved wrong when we were forced to do the next item.
• Walk around the resort town you're in and ask if they're rooms available if you haven't booked a room in advance.  Our budget was max (and still is) 30 USD per night for a room.  We found that most places at or under this price-threshold didn't list online and we simply asked to see a room and made our decision from there.  Speaking of which...
• If you walk-in looking for a bed, always ask to see a room.  See what they're offering and check to see if it meets your criteria.  Is it clean? Are their insects? Is the bed comfortable?  Does it smell funny? Do the curtains block light?  If you don't like it, don't take it. Walk away
• There's very little difference between a room that costs 20 USD a night and one that costs 40 USD.  You're paying for essentially the same quality of good, just at double the price.  We've stayed in rooms that cost 40 USD and they were in poorer condition than the ones priced well below that.
• Have cash on hand.  Most hotels in this price range don't take credit card. 

Hotel Cottages in Moalboal

Food

Filipino food is, umm, unique.  Unlike their ASEAN neighbors, they don't really have any strong showing in the culinary world (have you ever heard of a Filipino restaurant? Didn't think so...).  They do, however, have a lot of American influence in their diet.  

Filipino food, at least the few times we had it, was mostly mixed meat served with rice.  Vegetables are hard to come by and aren't served with any dish by default.  We don't eat fish (Nathalie has severe allergies) but from what we gathered, it was good. 

That being said, western food can be found practically everywhere and the prices are reasonable.  We wound up eating mostly Italian food, burgers, sometimes Mexican, one time Jamaican and lots of American breakfasts.  Expect to pay between 3-6 USD a meal, before including alcohol.  

The Filipino national beer is San Miguel and San Mig Light.  As far as beer goes, it's drinkable and honestly not too bad.  The San Mig Light tastes a bit like diet Corona.  I'm not sure if that's a good thing.  Beer usually will set you back around one dollar at most bars and restaurants. 

There are homegrown liquors, mostly rums, that are ridiculous cheap. Tanduay is one of the more famous ones and a flask will set you back a whopping 1.90 USD.  It's drinkable, although you can taste the hangover coming if you drink more than a couple shots.   Imported alcohol is more expensive, but not by much.  We saw a 5th (750 ml) of Captain Morgan, at an 7-11, for a mere seven dollars.    Keep in mind that it's usually too hot to get drunk and even dangerous if you do so in the heat.  Be careful.  

The Filipinos love their sugar and you can readily find candy, ice cream and pastries almost anywhere you go.  I wrote about this in my country review of  the Philippines, but for a country blessed with such delicious fruit, you'll be hard pressed to find a natural fresh fruit juice.  You'll mostly wind up getting canned 'fruit drink' instead. 

We beat the onslaught of calories and unbalanced diet by limiting our meals to two per day: one big breakfast on one big late lunch/early dinner.  Not only did it save us a bit of cash, but it also saved us the calories. Plus, it was often too hot to eat in the afternoon so foregoing lunch wasn't all that big of a deal.  

Filipino Cheeseburger with a San Mig Light

What to do

I think the better question is: What not to do?  Seriously, there are so many outdoor activities available, you'll run out of time before you run out of stuff  to do.  Pretty much if you can think of it, you can do it.  Like rock climbing?  The country is made up of volcanic mountains.  Go nuts! Want to go kayaking or whitewater rafting? That's possible too!  Like shooting guns?  So do the Filipinos, and they have shooting ranges waiting for you!  Can't wait to go hang out with fish?  The diving is great and cheap!  You like sitting on a white-sand beach doing nothing but enjoying the moment?  Well, the Philippines are for you! 

We were in the Philippines for one month and during that time we have the impression that we both did a lot yet saw nothing.   And that's not to say that we didn't have an amazing experience or didn't actually see anything of interest.  I'd argue it was the exact opposite:  there was just too much to do in thirty days.   

What I suggest is that if you're going to the Philippines, write down what you'd like to do.  From there, pick a region that interests you (I liked the Visayas, but honestly, I would like to go back and discover a whole new area as I'm sure I'll be treated) and plan around it.   To use an awful phrase from the business world, 'best practice' would be to get an idea of what you want to do and start looking online for those activities in the Philippines.  Use TripAdvisor to find the most recommended travel agency for excursions.  Word of mouth goes a long way and be sure to talk to people in the hotel and bars  to get their feedback.   The Philippines is an informal place and this form of marketing and brand approval goes a long, long way in maintaining high quality in the local culture.  

We did a lot of diving (with gear and park fees, it worked out to around 25 USD per dive), scaled a volcano (30 dollars for two people with a guide and food), explored an island on a rented motorbike (6 USD a day) and did a lot of chilling by some of the most spectacular beaches on the planet.  It's all for your choosing; just avoid being indoors for too long, you'll miss out!

Never Miss A Go Go Global Gringo Update!

Sign Up For Free to Get the Latest Post Sent Directly To Your Inbox!
Take me to the sign up page! 
                                                                                                                                                                          powered by FeedBurner